Greetings Peeps and welcome to life in Erbil. I may be being a bit premature, having only been here a week. But I think I am getting a good handle on it.

Life in Erbil started last Friday, the 11th. The preceding week was spent in Dubai. I was staying with a colleague whom was kind enough to put me up, or put up with me, at the Dubai Marina.

I had a couple of meetings and few domestic issues to deal with before flying out. But it for made a gentle introduction to the new year and new life.

Dubai Marina

I have to say, it was quite good staying in the marina. There is a lot going on and plenty of restaurants to choose from. I wasn’t terribly adventuress but did enjoy an evening in the Black Tap. A glorified burger bar with some amazing milk shakes, it also boasted a huge selection of draft craft beers and more in bottles. It was hog heaven. I enjoyed a blue cheese burger washed down by a variety of mainly American, but rather good beers, none of which I had previously heard of. Why do you always discover these things too late?


Without a car, work was reached using the metro system. It was a few hundred yards walk to the nearest station. This time of year it’s quite pleasant weather wise, so no chore. I can imagine at the height of the summer, it is a more sweaty affair.

The metro itself is very good. We used once or twice when we first moved to Dubai, but more often than not, we drove every where. Quick, clean, a bit crowded at times, I wish I had used it more on reflection.

The Departure

For my last night in Dubai, I stayed at The Millenium Hotel near Dubai airport. No particular reason, other than it’s proximity to the airport. Turned out it was a good choice.

I got a deal on the room, which they upgraded to an Club suite; including breakfast, when I checked in. The room was palatial. Perhaps not as opulent as some of the Jumeira hotels, but comfortable, clean and well appointed. The en-suite was huge. Apart from a walk in shower with enough room to accommodate a full rugby team, there was a bath where small daughter could have easily held her swim training. I was tempted to spend the night in the huge bath, but forced myself out for dinner.

Club suit
My Club Suit

Cactus Jacks

The hotel boasts a good selection of restaurants, from the traditional buffet through various national themed outlets. I had a beer in Biggles, a British themed pub which was fine. Usual selection of beers and typical pub grub. I rarely choose Italian restaurants, so gave that’s miss but was intrigued by Cacus Jack’s, their Mexican, TexMex outlet.

Cactus Jacks
Cactus Jacks on a quiet Thursday

It was pretty quiet, but service was still a tad slow. I wasn’t particularly worried as I was in no hurry. I started off with a concoction of jalapeño flavored melted cheese with peppers and corn chips. Very tasty and just a nice amount of heat. It was a bit filling, but I had a while between courses, so valiantly battled on. My main was Jumbalaya. When it arrived it was very pleasant, but vaguely disappointing. I like Jumbalaya. I like it spicy with plenty of sausage, seafood and chicken. This was a bit lacking in everything but rice, but tasty enough. However, I was feeling mellow thanks to a few ice cold beers, so let it slip. I would have liked to have tried a few other dishes on the menu, another potential eatery found too late. Dubai just has too many to choose from.

Check Out

After a good nights sleep in a huge and very comfy bed, I grabbed a late breakfast, checked out and was given a complimentary car to the airport. All in all, I would have to recommend the Millenium Hotel. It was reasonably priced, comfortable and offered pretty good service. If you are looking for a hotel close to the airport either when arriving, or departing, you could do worse than the Millenium.

And So To Erbil

I hate Terminal 2 at Dubai airport. I was flying FlyDubai, one of the few airlines offering a service to Erbil, so there was no choice, but Terminal 2 is so dreary. Think of a place you really wouldn’t want to go to. Most of them are serviced from Terminal 2.

Check in was long and protracted. There are strict baggage rules on FlyDubai. Size and weight restrictions. But people still rock up with multiple huge bags and assorted, plastic wrapped boxes. Then get upset and argue when they are told to pay excess baggage. As a budget airline, FlyDubai do rigorouslyapply the excess charges. I had two bags but was 3 kilo’s over the limit and was charged accordingly.

Once in the terminal, I couldn’t find anywhere to get a beer, so settled for a volcanically hot tea. The flight was delayed, which only prolonged the joy. Eventually the flight was called and I belayedly remembered I needed some US currency. Dollars are the currency of choice in Iraq.

Travelex Service

There was a Travelex nearby, so I asked if I could purchase a wedge of dollars. Use the ATM, I was told. Fair enough. Sure enough the ATM spewed a load of $100 notes. Hmm. Small denominations are better, so going back to the counter, I asked if they would please split a hundred into smaller denominations. All I got was a blank look and an emphatic no. Why not? Because you didn’t get it from us. But I tried and you told me to use the ATM. Yes, cos it gives dollars. I know but I need some small denominations, so would you please split it for me? This time she consulted her computer, shatter to a colleague then, with a smile delivered the verdict. No. You didn’t get it from us. Customer service in action.

Fortunately there was another currency exchange place nearby who didn’t seem to mind I hadn’t got the notes from them. They were happy to split my hundred for me. Wish I had spotted them first.

The Faux Pas

On boarding the flight, I realized that in the excitement of my international currency negotiations, I had left my iPad at the departure gate. Aarrgghh. Normally, it takes a surgeon to separate me from my iPad. I couldn’t believe I had left it behind and spent a few minutes checking and rechecking my handbaggage. Eventually, I accepted the truth and informed the cabin crew of my faux pas. They were very impressive. Leaping into action, a young cabin attendant took my boarding pass after enquiring where I thought I may gave left the tablet. He grabbed a ground staff type and there followed a series of radio exchanges. I was in my seat watching all this and not feeling terribly optimistic. But he came back all smiles. It had been found. Huzzah.

The Saga

It seems a young Dutch student had found it and handed it in to list property. She had checked it first and somehow got my name. I know this as several hours later, in Erbil, I discovered I had a message via Instagram from her telling me what she had done. I am terribly grateful and urge you all to check out her Instagram page and like all her photo’s. It’s ilseelbers by the way.

Ilse elbers
Ilse my iPad Savior Thank you. 😁

Next day, I contacted my erstwhile host in the Marina and asked for one more huge favor. Bless him, a prince amongst men and despite being a Geordie, Mr Stuart Donkin set off on the Metro to Terminal 2 to do battle with the lost and found.

And it did turn out to be a battle. It seems laptops and tablets are very easily lost in airports. There were dozens of the things and this, just from this year so far. I had armed Stuart with a copy of my boarding pass, details of when and where it had been lost/found. I could even provide who had found it and of course, I gave him my passcode to unlock it.

Perseverance

Eventually it was found, but not handed over. I got a call. Did I know the serial number. No, of course not! Could I send a copy of my passport, My ID card, my favorite color, what I had for breakfast on the 15th March last year and the name of my neighbours dog.

Even with all this information, the guy was reluctant to hand it accross. Stu opened the IPad and found some pictures of me. Comparing it with my passport photo, (which admittedly is not the best, but still recognizable as a slightly angry looking me), Stu asked if it might be more than a coincidence that I was claiming the tablet as mine? Still didn’t satisfy the guy.

In what can only be described as dogged perseverance and duty above and beyond, he kept at it and finally wore the guy down. It took several hours, but he did it. So a huge thank you to Stu too.

Happy to say, it’s back in my possession and I am happily typing this on it now.

Arrival in Erbil

Otherwise, the flight to Erbil was uneventful. I grabbed an exit row seat, so was comfortable enough. I bought a couple of wines to numb the loss of the iPad and before you know it, we were in Erbil.

It’s not a pretty airport, but I’ll take it over Terminal 2 Dubai, anyday. Once through immigration there is a scrum for baggage, then a seemingly pointless customs control and you are outside.

Erbil airport
Erbil International Airport

From the arrivals terminal, a bus takes you to the …… i don’t know what to call it? Another remote terminal where you get dropped off or picked up. What would you call that? Anyway, I am an old hand at this. Try being British and wait for the arriving passengers to get off and ladies and children to get on, you’ll be waiting there all night. It’s survival of the fittest. Elbows and well placed carry on bags to the ribs of your fellow passengers to get ahead of them is the way to go. I still bear the scars.

At the pick up terminal(?), there was a distinct lack of driver. We were late, so I think he had given up and gone home. A few phone calls tracked him down and 20 minutes later I was on my way.

La Roche Hotel

I was booked into La Roche hotel. I didn’t know it and wasn’t expecting much from it. Especially at $50/night.

What a surprise. The hotel far exceeded my expectations. Efficient staff, a scrupulously clean, comfortable room with lots of amenities. Good food and a good wifi service. I have been here a week now and absolutely no complaints. It’s quiet, far from being full. But that means the gym is always empty. Yes I have even been to the gym a few times.

La Roch hotel Erbil
La Roche hotel , Erbil

One observation. Erbil is prone to power cuts. We get several a day. Usually one around 7.00 am then a couple throughout the day, through to the evening and a couple at night. They last a couple of minutes, then all is good. The worst ones are, ironically, in the middle of the night. You are sound asleep, the power goes off then, wham. All the emergency lights come on at the loss of power. It’s not really noticeable during the day or at night when the lights are on, (before they go off). But in the dead of night, waking from a deep sleep. Gets me every time.

Working In Erbil

It seems I will be moving into my apartment this coming Sunday. I also get my car on Sunday. This may not be such a blessing. The driving here is truly terrible. And this from someone who has survived driving in Jakarta, Cairo, the UAE and Qatar. I am scheduled for defensive driving training Sunday am before getting the keys. Could be fun.

The roads aren’t the best either. Massive and I do mean massive potholes. These add to the excitement, causing drivers to swerve, or break, or take off in a shower of sparks. More often, all three.

At the moment, I get collected in the staff mini bus. It was designed to accommodate 5ft Chinese. Not 6ft Brits. It’s a squeeze. And as I am the last on, I have to squeeze wherever there is a space. Good way of making friends. Intimate friends at that. “Are you struggling with your seat belt, or do you just like touching my arse” asked one very large South African driller last week. He got a weak smile by return and I opted to hold the seatbelt in place accross my chest after that.

The office is serviceable. It’s old and let’s face it, it’s in a well services base, so it’s not designed for namby pamby office types like me. Its going to be my work home for the next few years, so I better get used to it. Fortunately, the guys are all very friendly and helpful to the new pillows in the suit. Still can’t abandon my work suit. They are all casual or in overalls. I do stand out a bit. But I don’t mind. I did manage to lose the tie, at least in the office, but don it when going to meetings. Well there are certain standards you know. Biggest problem, but one easily fixed, us a lack of milk. I’m British. I drink tea with milk. Most of the other punters drink coffee, Edith black or with that horrid powdered milk. So, obvious solution. I am going to have to buy a cow.

Office sign
Sign outside my office. I find it both reassuring and strangely disconcerting at the same time

And on that bombshell, I shall leave you. I hope to share more of my frustrations on Brexit with you later, keep you up to speed with the new apartment, my driving fun and watch out for more Sfaxian Tales.

In the meantime be safe and be happy.

Graham Wannabescot