Hi Folks,

Long time, no speak.  Its been rather hectic since my last post which seems like ages ago. Mainly because it was ages ago.  Since then, I have been back to Scotland and am now back in Iraq, watching the developing Covid19 issue with interest and wondering if I will make it back to Scotland before the local airport is closed. No sign of this happening yet, but it’s a possibility.  But I don’t want to talk about the virus. I want to talk about the 6 Nations and Match Day.

Match Day

Yes, Match Day. My first weekend back in Scotland at the start of February saw Wifey and I taking a weekend in Edinburgh in order to watch the Scotland v England 6 Nations Rugby match at Murrayfield.  This has become something of a tradition and one I look forward to. Last year, we watched Wales beat Scotland at their home ground.  This year was going to be more interesting, with England visiting Murrayfield. Those of you who follow the 6 Nations will remember, Scotland were at Twickenham last year and managed a draw after an amazing 2nd half recovery that saw a huge English lead whittled away. In fact Scotland took the lead in the dying minutes only to lose what would have been an astounding victory to a last minute English penalty.  We were hoping for more of the same drama this time around on Scottish home territory.

On this occasion, we were staying at the iconic Balmoral Hotel on Princes Street, slap bang in the middle of Edinburgh.

Bad Start

I have to say we got off to a bad start.  My usual travel arrangements see my flying into Manchester then catching a FlyBe flight up to Aberdeen. On this occasion there wasn’t a flight available so I opted to hire a car to get up the road. A 6+hour drive after 10 hours of air travel isn’t ideal, but reckoned I’d be home in Craigellachie around 03.00hrs.  I got through immigration and collected my luggage in record time.  The shuttle bus to the car hire ‘village’ was waiting so all seemed to be going swimmingly.

I had reserved and pre-paid for a car with Sixt, so headed for their desk. There was only one assistant, dealing with a customer, so I waited in line for my turn. I noticed all the major hire firms were represented. Avis, Hertz, Europcar, Budget. And all were deserted. The only clients were me and the chap taking a long time at the Sixt desk. And he was taking his time.

After 5 minutes or so I started to get impatient.  It seemed the guy was still haggling over car choice and rate.  He wanted a Mercedes, but didn’t want the C Class he wanted the E Class, but at the C class price. Next he considered a Range Rover but a Vogue not an Evoque and could he have it at the same rate as a Volvo XC90? This conversation went on for another 10 minutes before I finally intervened.

Un British

Being terribly un-British about it, I stepped up and asked if I could get the keys to my car whilst he was deliberating as I had a long journey and a car pre-booked and waiting on me. “No”, he said. Its my turn. He then went back to the Mercedes choices and benefits of a saloon over a crossover. So I waited. I had been there nearly 20 minutes now and the guy still hadn’t selected a car. Finally I had had enough. Stepping up again, I elbowed the chap to one side and suggested to the assistant that if I didn’t get my car, I would visit one of the other companies.  The chap was not happy, but  I think the assistant was actually relieved, and in around 2 minutes I was walking out to an Audi A4.

Which turned out to be horrible. First Audi I have driven and not enjoyed. Still, It got me up the road safely and without incident, other than I discovered its hard to find an open petrol station at 02.00 in the morning near Aberdeen.  However I did eventually find a pay at pump station at a supermarket so was saved the indignity of getting stuck.

Old Age and Forgetfulness

Next day, the plan was I would drive to Aberdeen to drop off the hire car and Wifey would follow in the Tesla, pick me up and we’d head off to Edinburgh. What could possibly go wrong. Well….  I could forget the 6 Nations rugby tickets.  Fortunately or unfortunately, depends on your perspective, I realized this about half way to Aberdeen. After a frantic phone call, Wifey turned around and headed back to collect said tickets whilst I carried on to drop off the car and enjoy a beer in the local bar.   As it happened, I managed a few before an only slightly disgruntled Wifey finally arrived. I blame old age and lack of sleep for my oversight.

The unexpected detour had eaten into the rage of the Tesla so we had to stop at Dundee to recharge. Fortunately the Double Tree by Hilton hotel has a Tesla Supercharger and good coffee.20 minutes later we were good to go. The weather took a turn for the worse, so it was in driving rain that we arrived in Edinburgh.

Edinburgh

Finding your way around Edinburgh is an issue anytime. In bad weather with crap visibility its a nightmare. Edinburgh council seem to hate drivers, hence there are lots of weird one way systems and of course the tram way to negotiate.  The Balmoral can only be approached by car one way as the section of Princes street its on is bisected by the tram way.  We were coming from the ‘wrong’ way.  Consequently, we had a few interesting little detours around the back streets off the Royal Mile. Eventually we made it and were greeted by a nice, liveried doorman, our luggage collected and the car valet parked. Now the weekend could start in earnest.

The Balmoral Hotel

The Balmoral Hotel is very grand and very expensive. On checking in, I discovered the rate we had paid, nearly 400quid a night, was room only. If we wanted breakfast that would be another 36quid per night each. Oh and the valet parking was a further 35 quid per day, thank you very much. I am sure the breakfast would have been tremendous but Wifey is Scottish and she took offence at being charged an extra 100 quid as soon as we checked in. So we declined breakfast. Which proved a good thing as I shall explain later.

The room was comfortable,  but really nothing special for the price. We also lacked a view, our bedroom window looking inward towards the rooms opposite and the roof of the Courtyard Dining rom in the hotel. Still, it was nice and it was only somewhere to sleep.  For dinner, we tried for a table in the Mitchelin starred ‘Number One’ hotel restaurant, but no chance, especially on a 6 Nations weekend.  Try booking a few months in advance was the advice.  It wasn’t a good night for wandering around the city, but with little option, we braved the elements and walked to the Royal Mile, home of lots of great restaurants.

Hewat’s on the Mile

A bit soggy, we eventually found Hewat’s on the Mile. A small family run place, it was great.  Don’t be put off by its subterranean location. You walk down a staircase from street level to discover a compact and very full dining area. Our table was a little cramped, but we didn’t mind and the food was exceptional.  It was a difficult choice from a very good menu but Wifey opted for Woodland Mushrooms followed by Roast Tenderloin of Boar. I went fishy with sautéed King Scallops followed by medley of Sea Bass, Scallops and King prawns.  It was all delicious, beautifully presented and superbly cooked. A nice Chilean Sauvignon Blanc washed it down nicely.  Better yet, the bill was very reasonable and warmed by a whisky chaser, we stepped back into a very wet Edinburgh night.

Scran

Next morning after a bit of a lie in, we went out to search for a breakfast spot. Returning to the Royal Mile, hidden in a small arcade off the main drag, we found “Scran”  It looked busy which we took to be a good thing. Once again we were squeezed into a cramped corner table  in a quirky little place, full of interesting bits and bobs of assorted memorabilia. If there was a theme, I couldn’t figure out what it was, but it was perfectly pleasant.

Scran’s  menu was also very interesting and probably worthy of future  testing, but for breakfast we went old school. I had Haggis Stovies whilst Wifey went for the Full Scottish. The portions were huge, but Wifey still managed to follow her breakfast with a pile of Mascarpone and Nutella Pancakes. Fresh Orange juice and lots of coffee complemented the meal.   Another very reasonable bill, (less than the cost of one Balmoral hotel breakfast) and we were fortified to take on the day.

The Match

Any 6 Nations Match Day in Edinburgh is special.  The bars and hotels are full of visiting rugby fans. There is a party atmosphere and lots of good humored banter.  When its the Auld Enemy and the Calcutta Cup, it takes on an extra dimension. We followed our usual path, along George Street, stopping off at various crowded pubs. It was a beautiful day at this point. Chilly, but bright, so we sat outside to enjoy the sunshine.  As we got closer to Murrayfield and kick off time, we found ourselves caught up in the usual throng of happy fans.

One of the things I like about rugby is the comradery. Unlike football, the opposing fans are perfectly happy together. There were Scots in kilts,  with blue faces.  Not from the cold, but painted with the Scottish Saltire. Some England fans were dressed as knights and many bore the red cross of St George on their cheeks. Wifey had a Scottish bobble hat on and I had my scarf wrapped around my ears to ward of the worse of the chill. The weather had turned again and it was now overcast and raining with a cold wind blowing.

By the time we got to our seats in the stadium, it was freezing and the rain was belting down.  I checked out the flags around the ground to see who would benefit from the wind. No one it seemed as the wind was swirling, first one way then another. It was going to be a difficult kicking game.

This was bore out after the anthems and kick off when England received a long ball from Scotland and hoisted the return high into the air. Where it was blown backwards. It was going to be one of those games.

Not  a Classic

I would like to give you a blow by blow account of a classic 6 Nations  match. But it wasn’t one. Eventually England ran out the victors, but the real winner was the weather.  The match was characterized by driving wind and rain resulting in lots of handling errors and dodgy kicks. It was also freezing cold. God knows what the players must have thought, but I was relieved when it was over, so I could get somewhere warm and get a drink.  It had been a disappointing game, but no one could have offered a spectacle in those conditions. England made slightly fewer errors than Scotland and that decided the game. 13:6 to England

Subdued

It was a subdued crown that made their way back into town. The pouring rain and gale force winds didn’t help. As we slowly progressed along Princes Street, the crowd thinned, filling the local bars and restaurants.  By the time we got back to the hotel we were drenched and chilled to the bone. A hot bath thawed us out and with dry clothes we were ready to tackle Angels with Bagpipes. Our dinner venue for the evening.

The restaurant is close to the hotel and seemed a perfectly nice place. Not as friendly as Hewat’s perhaps. A more limited menu and, dare I say a little more pretentious. Or it might have been we were just not in the mood. Suffice to say it wasn’t as enjoyable as our dinner the previous evening. We found a little pub afterwards to close the night before wandering back to the hotel.

Highs and Lows

And that was that. The highlights of the weekend were definitely the superb Hewat’s on the Mile, Scran and the walk to the match, enjoying the excitement of the build up. Oh and bumping into Martin Johnson, England’s former World Cup winning Captain, staying at the hotel. Turns out the England team stayed there on the Friday Night. Had Wifey realized, she might have tried to nobble them.

The low points were the dreadful weather and the adverse impact on the match. But we still thoroughly enjoyed our get away and will be back again next years 6 Nations match of Scotland v Wales on 13th February.  In the meantime, Wifey will be at the Scotland France 6 Nations Game in March. I will be in Iraq. But I’ll look for them in the crowd.  Bound to see them.

And on that note, I wish you a fond farewell until next time when I talk about a flying visit to Inverness and the new LandRover Defender.  Till then,

Cheerio.

Graham Wannabe  8th March 2020the ^ Nations and