Hi Folks,

On the way back from our recent trip to Ireland and the very beautiful region of Connemara, we decided to break our journey in the English Lakes. Another beautiful part of the country.  We opted to stay near Windermere, within striking distance of one of my favourite lake spots. Ambleside.

Ambleside

Beer Expeditions

When I first started driving, I used to arm myself with the Good Beer Guide and head off at weekends, searching for the wonderful pubs and Inns I had read about in the guide.  On one occasion, I decided to head across to Ambleside to a pub called The Drunken Duck at Barngates. It’s between Ambleside and Hawkeshead and was wonderful.

At that time, the pub used to feature local beers such as Jennings from Cockermouth, Yates from Westnewton and Hartleys from Ulverston, all good, local, Cumbrian breweries.  They also kept  ‘foreign’ beers such as Theakstons from Masham Yorkshire.  These were all in my favourite beer list so I was in hog heaven.

The food at the pub was also really good. Good honest home made pub grub using fresh local ingredients.  Game Pie with locally sourced game. Fish and chips with fresh Morecambe fish, lamb from the local Dales farms. It was heavenly.  The pub also had a few rooms which were very comfortable and homely and not expensive.  Hence Ambleside and the ‘Duck became a regular destination for weekends.

The Drunken Duck at Barngates Ambleside

At the crossroads to Ambleside, Hawkeshead , Tarn Hows and somewhere else?

Living At The Drunken Duck

Many years later,  I moved to Cumbria from Kent  when I worked for BG. I was to be part of the team commissioning  and starting up the new gas terminal at Barrow.  At first they put me in a local hotel in Barrow.  It was ok but not especially memorable. Which is why I can’t for the life of me remember its name.  After a few weeks, I decided to move myself. The ‘Duck is around 40 mins drive from Rampside in Barrow where the gas terminal was situated, but its a nice drive, so I moved to the Drunken Duck where I stayed for the next 6 or so weeks.

This was later in the year, October/November time, so after the peak tourist season for Ambleside and just starting to get chilly.  Driving back to the ‘Duck from work, I found loads of little twisty-turny backroads that made the journey fun as well as shaving off a few minutes. The area around Ambleside and the Lakes in general, is a mass of these interesting little roads.  Once back at the Inn, I would shower and change and go down to the bar for dinner.  I had my favourite seat in front of the roaring log fire.  Here I would enjoy a nice game pie, washed down by a few pints of Jennings Best and read my book, whilst half listening to the conversation of the local hill farmers who would drop by for a beer and a chat.  It was glorious and quite possibly one  of the most enjoyable times I have ever had when moving for work.

A Great pint….

…..a Cosy log fire……

…and Game Pie = happy man

Barrow in Furness

Living in Barrow allowed me to explore many more of the wonderful little villages and pubs in and around the Lakedistrict.  And there are lots. Some of my favourites were The Punch Bowl at Crossthwaite, The Cuckoo Brow in High Sawrey, The Queens Head in Hawkeshead and the Masons Arms on Strawberry Bank,  Cartmel Fell. Quite literally, we were spoilt for choice.

From Barrow, the family and I moved to Tunisia and then on to many more, far flung places.  But we would always try to spend at least a weekend at the Drunken Duck and Ambleside on our leave visits home.  This stopped after we bought our home in Craigellachie in 2014.  And so it was with great anticipation we arrived after driving from the Ferry Terminal at Hollyhead at the Masons Arms at Strawberry Bank.

The Masons Arms at Strawberry Bank

Changes

You may be wondering why we chose the Masons as opposed to The Drunken Duck, given I am so fond of the latter.  Well, sadly, things change.  Over the years the ‘Duck has changed hands and also changed character.  The cosy, inviting lakeland pub I first encountered has over time morphed into a rather pretentious gastropub.  They brew their own beer there now, as the Barngates brewery,  some of which is very good. My favourite is Cracker Ale, named after an old pub dog.   The food is a lot more pretentious  and expensive. As are the rooms, of which there are many more with the addition of annexes outside the pub.   Its still a nice place, but it’s a mere shadow of its former self.  If I went there for the first time now, I am sure I would like the place. But having seen it ‘back in the day’ it’s just not the same or, IMHO as good.  So we don’t go anymore.

Kwak beer in its novel glass

Inevitably, things do change. And not always for the better and so it turned out with the Masons too. When I was a regular there, the pub had an astounding range of bottled beers from around the world as well as an extensive selection of draft beers.  The pub also prided itself in serving each bottled beer in its appropriate and often unique glass.  To understand what I mean, check out  the bizarre, retort stand-like affair used to serve the Belgian KWAk beer. Then multiply by several dozen for lots of other bizarre glass shapes.  A night in the Masons was a veritable beer adventure.

Disappointment

Not any more. The beer selection as well as the various glass types have all gone.  Although there was a decent selection of  draft beers available still.  The Masons always did great food and very generous portions. I used to love their spare ribs, served in a gooey, sticky sauce. I could happily have had ribs to start, with a ribs main course and a few ribs for dessert, please.  Fortunately they still do good food and the ribs are still excellent. But overall, it wasn’t the same or as good.  It’s hard to pin down why.  Possibly a touch of rose coloured hind sight going on, but I really believe it’s more than that.

Back in the day, you always got a warm welcome when you went into any of the pubs around Ambleside. The ‘Duck or the Masons or any other.  It was like you were a long lost friend returning to the fold. This gave you a warm fuzzy feeling and made you feel special. It was also very clever as you looked forward to going back and giving great wedges of cash to your good friend, the landlord.   Whilst  the staff at the Masons were efficient, they weren’t exactly friendly, or welcoming.

Is it the Staff?

It used to be mainly locals worked in the pubs in the area. In the summer there would be seasonal staff.  Students from various places.  In a recent post, I  mentioned watching England getting stomped on by Jonah Lomu and the All Blacks back in 1995.  I was in the ‘Duck when that happened and most of the bar staff at the time were Kiwi’s. But they seemed to be quite happy to be there and enjoying the experience.   (Especially THAT experience).   I always got on well with the serving staff. I used to work in a pub when I was a student so I could both empathise with them and appreciate what a great job they were doing.

The Masons staff seemed to be  mainly young, not from the area and a bit put out at having to be there.  As I say they were efficient, but gave the impression they were doing you a favour by serving you. Being British to the core, I found myself doing that very British thing of apologising before asking for something.    “Excuse me, sorry, so sorry,  but could I possibly get another drink, if it’s not too much trouble, please? Thank you, thank you so much, so sorry”.  I know. It’s pathetic and I really must stop doing it.

Here’s to the Future

Suffice to say, it’s another lesson learned. Sometimes it’s not a great idea to revisit the good memories from your past as the present may not live up to expectations.   Our few nights at the Masons was fine.  The food was good, the beer enjoyable and the scenery as stunning as always.  Our room was small but comfortable for a couple of nights.  They did mess up our booking and put is the wrong room. We were supposed to be in a far larger suite than the standard room we were given. Plus the requested extra bed for Small was missing. This was at least quickly sorted out, but by the time they realised the suite error, Small was asleep, so we let it go.

It’s not all bad. Ambleside and the Lakes is still beautiful. More touristy than ever and we got stuck in heavy slow moving traffic, wending our way along the beautiful, but narrow, lakeland roads.   It has reminded me of just how much I love the Lakes, so we will be back. But next time we will stay somewhere we have never been before. I think it’s time to make new memories and let the good memories from the past remain just that.  Fond recollection from the past.

And on that note, have a great week and see you all again soon.

Some images taken from around Ambleside and Lake Windermere.

Graham Wannabe, Nov 8th 2019

PS.  Back in the Rugby World Cup post from September, I made a few predictions.  Well, I did get the 4 semifinalists right, but was obviously very wrong about England or the All Blacks winning the championship.  Congratulations to South Africa.  It was a well deserved win on the day and raises England, I think, to the team with the most final losses in the tournament with 1 win from 4.  Not the best record to have.  Still, there’s always 2023 to look forward to.